1. Prepare the area for the painting project. Place drop cloths on the floor, and open any windows and doors to allow plenty of ventilation into the area. Position the wood furniture that is to be painted on the cloths. Put on a face mask, and possibly gloves, before beginning the project.
2. Remove any necessary hardware from the furniture. You want to remove any hardware that's attached to the furniture before you paint it. This does two things:
- It ensures that the hardware is paint-free when you reattach it, and that the entire piece will be adequately covered with paint if you decide that you want use different hardware.
Apply most of the wood filler to the damaged part of the wood, not to the undamaged wood, although there can be some overlap (and you'll be able to sand it down later). Use the putty knife to scrape away excess wood filler and allow it to dry.
- If you're going to replace any hardware on your furniture, fill in the old holes where the previous hardware was attached. Scrape flush to the board with a putty knife and let dry.
- Pay close attention to any scroll work or other indentations in the wood, making sure to sand those by hand as thoroughly as possible.
- Pay special attention to the areas where wood filler was applied. Sand enough so that the filled portions are flush with the rest of the furniture.
Prime if you want an even look on your furniture. Using a paintbrush and a roller, gently brush an even coat of the primer on the surface of the wood. Use a paintbrush along corners, edges, and harder-to-reach areas; use the roller to hit wide-spaced, even areas that aren't contoured. Allow the primer to dry before moving on to painting the furniture piece.
- Do you really need to use a primer? If you want your coat of paint to adhere evenly to the wood, and you want the paint to last long, you're going to want to add a primer before you paint. Don't worry about getting even coverage with the primer; as long as it coats what you're going to paint, you're good to go.
- If you're going for more of a weathered, distressed look on your furniture, you may want to skip the primer. Note that the paint may eventually chip if no primer has been set down before painting.
- Prime often-used surfaces extra thick for added coverage. If you're painting a tabletop or a desktop, you may want to lather on a couple layers — or one thick layer — to give added protection and sheen to often-used parts of your furniture.
Paint the wooden furniture with a roller or a brush. Go over even surfaces of the furniture with a foam roller, if possible. Then, using even strokes, redo the area with a paintbrush, paying special attention to the places where rollers cannot apply paint — such as edges and corners. Allow the coat to dry, and inspect the piece for any areas that are not completely covered by the paint.
- Consider using a wood conditioner to make your job easier. A wood conditioner, such as Floetrol for latex paints and Penetrol for oil paints, will slow down the drying edge of the paint, allowing you to get a more even look on your paint. (Paint that dries too quickly can look patchy or uneven.) Wood conditioners, although added to your paint, won't change the color.
- Get a good quality paintbrush for the job. Poor-quality brushes will result in inferior looking projects; bristles will come loose and get stuck in the paint, or the coverage just won't look uniform. A good paintbrush is slightly more expensive, but with proper care, should prove you wise by lasting for several years.
Seal the paint job on the wooden furniture (optional). Once the paint is dry, apply a lacquer or sealant to protect the paint from nicks and scratches. This will also add a slight gloss to the piece, a feature that works well in many decorating schemes. Make sure the sealant is dry before moving the piece into the area of the home where it will be used. I always use polycrylic by Minwax.
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